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Let’s Print a Cat/Pet Feeding Device (Part 5)

Posted on 2021-01-302021-10-25 by Lucky Resistor

In the fifth part of this series, we print the turntable and talk about the back panel of the enclosure. If you missed one of the previous parts, visit the overview page to access them.

  • The Files
  • About the Turntable
  • Print the Turntable
  • About the Back Panel
    • The Parts I Used
    • How to Customize the Back Panel
    • Print the Back Panel
  • Insert the Insets
  • Conclusion
  • More Posts

The Files

You will find all required files for the prints in the GitHub repository:

Git Repository

About the Turntable

Before we start printing the turntable, let me explain some of the features of it, so you understand how they are used.

If you look at the bottom of the part, you can see the axis profile in the middle. It will interlock with the axis and drive the turntable. At the edge are five position sensor slots.

The cavity behind the position sensor slots is designed to reflect light from the larger hole back to the thin slot. If you point an IR LED to the round hole, you will get a relatively precise signal using an IR transistor placed below the slot.

This will only work if you are using a filament colour which reflects the IR wavelengths you are using for sensing. Alternatively, you can try to place aluminium foil at the top of the cavity, or just use white or reflective paint.

Also, the filament has to block the light around the slot for a precise measurement. Depending on the filament you use, you may need to paint the region black around the slot.

If you use white filament as suggested, it should work with no additional paint or foil. Depending on how you like to implement the position sensor, it makes sense you cut the position slot form the model and print it for some filament colour tests.

Print the Turntable

  • File: LR2051-501.stl
  • Material: PETG (Signal White)
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm
  • Print bed: Powder coated
  • Supports: No supports required
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • Filament: ~145g
  • Print Duration: ~13h
  • Notes: Make sure there is no warping!

About the Back Panel

In my version of the back panel, there are two slots. The first one is for an XLR USB feedthrough adapter and the second one for a large on/off switch.

The Parts I Used

The parts in the image above are:

  • Cliff CP30207NX USB 2.0 B to USB 2.0 A feedthrough adapter
    I like this adapter from Cliff, because they look very neat on the outside and you can replace them with another interface. Meanwhile, there is also a white version of this adapter. You find also USB-C adapters, but sadly no micro-USB ones.
  • C&K DA102J11S215PQF Switch
    There are many variations of this switch, with different colours and symbols. These switches are not cheap, but they are nice to look at and flip with a satisfying click.

How to Customize the Back Panel

If you like to use other components, you have several options to customise the back panel.

Along with the STL files, you also find a Fusion360 design LR2051-403A.f3d. If you are experienced using Fusion360, you can simply remove my features and add your own to the design.

If you are used to modify mesh files directly, I provide the file LR2051-403A-E.stl, which has no slots. You can use this mesh and add the required openings for the components you like to use.

In case you run into problems, or have any questions, please use the comments below or reply to the post on Twitter.

Print the Back Panel

  • File: LR2051-403A.stl or your custom design.
  • Material: PETG (Galaxy Black)
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm
  • Print bed: Powder coated
  • Supports: No supports required
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Filament: ~138g
  • Print Duration: ~10h

Insert the Insets

After printing the front and back panel, we have to insert the insets into these parts. This time, I won’t provide illustrations of the exact locations, because you may have printed a custom design.

Just look for the inset holes you found on all the previous parts. The front and back panel are fastened with screws from the base plate and the top plate. The back panel also provides a support for the rotary table and is fastened to the left and right panels using two additional screws.

Conclusion

Mechanically, these were the last parts to be printed (except a knob for the rotary encoder). If you like, assemble the whole device and run some tests. If you drive the stepper motor, the rotary table should rotate easily on top of the platform and dispense dry food you put into the compartments. 🎉

In the next part, we will talk about the first electronic board, the input panel. It is quite simple, just a place for the rotary encoder and four LEDs.

If you have any questions, missed information, or simply want to provide feedback, feel free to comment below or contact me on Twitter. 😄

Continue to Part 6

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2 thoughts on “Let’s Print a Cat/Pet Feeding Device (Part 5)”

  1. Nick Hu says:
    2021-02-08 at 13:19

    Hi, you say to print the turntable white, but then later you say to use material PETG (Galaxy Black). Is this a typo? Thanks!

    Reply
    1. Lucky Resistor says:
      2021-02-08 at 13:41

      Thank you to spot this typo! I changed the colour to “Signal White”. 😄

      Reply

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