Tag Archives: soldering

Snow Flake Component Side

Today I show you a little bit longer video about the assembly of the component side of the snow flake panel.

Compared with the very small 0402 LEDs (1mm x 0.5mm) on the front side, the component side contains just regular 0805 resistors and capacitors.

The first part of the video shows how I apply the solder paste using a metal stencil. I use a system called “eC-stencil-fix” from Eurocircuits. This is basically a set of plates with metal knobs to perfectly align the board with the stencil. With a tick in a checkbox, they produce panels which perfectly work using this stencil fix system, which is really convenient.

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Soldering Boldport Club project “The Matrix”

For the Boldport Club project “The Matrix” I used hot air soldering for the first time. After some experimenting and with help from Boldport Club members, it worked really well. I could colder the 120 LEDs in less than 10 minutes to the board.

I made a video about the process. Please keep in mind, I am new with this process, so this is absolutely no instruction video how things should be done. I may be absolutely wrong. 😀 Enjoy!

Here a list of the objects and tools you can see in the video:

If you have questions, miss some information or just have any feedback, feel free to add a comment below.

Video: Soldering Boldport Project “Touchy”

I made a short video how I solder the Boldport project “Touchy”. It is a SMD project with a quite difficult to solder chip. For the first half of the assembly, I did not notice that the solder tip was no screwed tight, so the heating of the tip was not optimal.

Click the link below for the same video on YouTube in a better quality:

And here are two photos of the board:

Soldering for Show

This article is about soldering for show. While usually you solder electronic components to make the best possible connection and keep everything working, this is just to make a great visual result. If you want to take photos from your projects or would like to impress a customer with a nice looking prototype, you have to solder with more care to the detail.

In the next sections I will describe a few things which are worth to think about, using Boldport Project #4 as an example. If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to add a comments to this article. Also feel free to ask about any other technique I use, about which you would like to see another article.

Equipment

To get great results you need the right tools.

lucky-resistor-4

First, you really need a good soldering station. The brand does not matter, but the performance does. The solder iron should actually transfer the required heat to the solder joint and this in a very consistent and reliable way. For this reason, the temperature sensor should be as close to the tip as possible. I personally use products from the Weller WT Series.

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Boldport Tap — Second Try

If you already saw the soldering video, here two photos of the result.

To get this result, I was inspired by the way Saar from Boldport was soldering his own projects, I adapted his technique.

  • After initial soldering, I flush cut carefully the wire as close as possible to the board. Cutting off any solder with the wire to make it flat.
  • Next I add more solder to the point  until it forms a small round dome.
  • On the component side I add solder if necessary to fill the hole and make a smooth transition from the hole to the wire.

For this photos I use solder with lead – this is a huge exception. It is the only way to get this shiny domes. Normally I work with lead free components and solder according to ROHS.

Video: Assembling Final Outmoded Sequencer PCB

Here a short update on the progress with the final Outmoded Sequencer project. I did the whole assembly of the final PCB and connected everything. You can see part of the soldering process in the following video:

I accidentally cut a route on the bottom of the PCB, so I had to fix this with a short wire. It is not visible on the final device. The magnet matrix mentioned in a previous post is already securely fastened to the bottom and holds the steel balls in place.

There are only the final adjustments of the frequencies left to do. I have to tune each tone and add the last four missing resistors.

Boldport “The Cuttle” Arrived

Today the new project from Boldport Club arrived. It is called “The Cuttle” and it is a minimal configuration of the ATMega328-PU microcontroller with minimal elements to get it running.

As usual the PCB is artfully designed in shape of a cuttlefish. Soldering was easy this time.

Here some photos of the project how it arrived and at the end the final version with all components soldered into place.

I also made a short video where you see the ATMega in action:

The source code for the LED effect shown in the video is very simple:

void setup() {
  DDRD = 0xff;
  PORTD = 0x0f;
}
void loop() {
  const uint8_t first = ((PORTD & 0x80) != 0) ? 1 : 0;
  PORTD = ((PORTD << 1) | first);
  delay(50);
}

Projects from Boldport Club Arrived

This week the beautiful projects from Boldport club arrived. Each of them comes with a nice box or bag which matches the individual project. All electronic components to assemble and solder the project are included, but you need some external power supply and jumper cables to bring some of the projects to life.

In the following sections, I will show you some impressions of the assembled kits. My soldering skills are far from perfect, so even after cleanup you see a lot of impurity on the PCB’s. If you like to join the club, you can do this here.

Project “Tap”

This project is based on a project from 1974, which is a touch activated switch. The “Tap” project is combined with the “Cordwood Puzzle” for the LEDs.

See the project in action:

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