After successful testing of the prototype, I created the final device. The first problem was to find a suitable casing, which provides enough room for the battery pack, the controller, the speaker, LED and the sensor. It is a little bit tricky to imagine the dimension of the final device, without using a CAD software.
Build the Elements into the Casing Top
I started with the LED and sensor and placed them on small stripboards with the resistors. I added a flat cable ending in crimp connectors. After this step I tested the connections if the LED, sensor and cables are working.
Next I drilled the required holes in the casing and fixed the boards with the LED and sensor in the casing (see F. I also added the power switch and speaker. There was instant adhesive involved.
Fasten the Controller to the Casing Bottom
I cut a circuit board to the right size to fit into the casing and drilled four holes in the corners to fasten the board with screws to the bottom. The expected location of the holes did not actually match the real location of the holes. But on screw is enough to fasten the board.
The Arduino (see A) is sticked to the board using some self-adhesive circuit board holder. You can plug four of them into the fastening holes, remove the protection foil and stick the Arduino on the main board. To create all connections I soldered headers to a small strip board (see B). The two pin header is connected to the other two pin header, the three pin header to the other three pin header and so on. You connect the components by plugging in similar connectors to either side. This allows easy assembling and disassembling of the device.
In the area C I connected the battery connector with two two-pin header. One header is for the power switch, the other one is to power the Arduino and the amplifier. To fasten the battery pack, I added some cardboard for the right distance and hook and loop fastener pads (see D).
Soldering the Circuits to the Shield
The data logger shield has a small prototype area which I used to solder the chips and elements to it. The area is small, but has exactly the right size for all elements to fit. I started with the two chip sockets then added the capacitors and connected everything using the wires from these elements.
At the end I added the flat cables which end in crimp connectors with housings (see E).
If you have a steady hand and patience, crimp connectors are a great way to quickly build connectors. I use a system from Molex with the crimps and different crimp housings for two, three, four etc. crimps. There are also headers with housings which perfectly fit these connectors.
The crimps look like this:
Usually you would lay the cable end with removed isolation into the crimp and use some tool to press the wings of the crimp together to fasten the cable. These special tools are expensive and not necessary. You can use a regular flat pliers to do this, or even simpler, just solder the cable to the crimp.
If the cables are connected, you push the crimps into the housing. There is a hook, which clicks in place and fastens the crimp in the housing. There is actually no way to disassemble the connector after this.
Connect the Shield and Battery
Next I put the shield on the Arduino and plugged all the connectors in. I also put the rechargeable batteries into the battery pack and plugged in the battery connector.
Now I can connect all the cables from the top to the right headers.
The battery is fastened with the hook and loop fastener pads and put into the casing.
Close the Casing
Everything connected I can close the casing. Here you can see the view which fits the images above.
Here the front view with the speaker holes and the sensor.
Done and Ready
The device is now ready to put into use. I can place it on protected areas like tables or shelves and enable it while I am out of the house. I just have to make sure the sensor area is covering just the protected area and not e.g. the floor. Sometimes it is necessary to put a cup or something in front of the device to reduce the sensor coverage.
If the cat jumps into a protected area, the device expresses its disapproval.